Each creator in the realm of fashion pursues a distinct mission. For some, it’s a quest to challenge our preconceived notions about style, while for others, it’s about spearheading a cultural trend.

Taiwanese creative mind Kai Ting Chen seeks to explore the essence of our being through her sartorial artistry. Her signature works reflect introspection, delving into themes as varied as the historic turmoil of the 1937 Nanjing Massacre to personal vulnerability. Her prize-winning series, “Fitness & Fragility,” melds the aesthetics of Asian street fashion with the essence of the New York scene, with Chen’s guiding principles at its core.

In a candid discussion with Kai Ting Chen, we delve into the inspirations behind her latest series, the significance of accepting our fragilities, and the seeds of her future creative endeavors.

With your latest work focusing on the notion of vulnerability in the fashion context, how do you interpret this embrace of vulnerability in your designs?

What garments have the power to evoke a sense of exposure when worn? As a couturier, I employ my craft to express my artistic vision. My exploration centers on the nuanced interplay between attire and fragility.

I am inspired by the philosophy presented in Taleb’s “Antifragile,” where he champions accepting our frailties instead of combatting them as a means to become fortitudinous over time.

A poignant insight from my thesis investigation encapsulated this for me: “Clothing, being in closest proximity to our skin, leaves us feeling exposed in their absence.”

Integrating this concept into my designs was a journey of experimentation. Narrative holds a critical function in illuminating our vulnerabilities.

My range uncovers a four-part voyage – inception, destruction, transformation, and wholeness. Entwined within the narrative of this ensemble is my own lived experience. Witnessing the fragility in my grandmother’s health ordeal inspired me creatively. Images that once filled me with dread have been reimagined as potential elements of my designs.

By acknowledging vulnerability, this series became a medium for my personal healing. A white skirt disintegrating into an array of dark printed ensembles stands as a symbol for embracing our frailties and progressing beyond them. The radiographic images of my grandmother’s health struggle transformed into a trilogy of prints, integrating her into my creative odyssey.

What I cherish most about crafting this collection is its reflective nature. By grappling with my vulnerabilities during the global health crisis, I grew parallel to the evolution of my work.

I choose not to shy away from my vulnerability, instead electing to share my narrative openly. I have taken the bold step to own my trauma and let it inform my designs.

In your view, does the interplay between raw emotions and fashion yield more inventive designs compared to more superficial trends?

Emotional and storied fabrications strike a chord with an audience. If your own creations move you, they will no doubt touch others. We mustn’t dismiss the power of personal connection in design.

My life’s adventures and tales fuel my imagination. I see myself as a chronicler, eager to unveil my narratives and the scars they’ve etched upon me. The pandemic has laid bare our collective vulnerabilities, touching each facet of our existence. Within this scope, I have felt vulnerability to its core.

With consumers tending to hold onto items of clothing that carry emotional weight or personal significance, might this realization help shift the industry from disposable fashion toward more substantial consumption?

I wholeheartedly believe in this notion.

Garments that conjure up fond memories hold a unique appeal, often more so than the latest trend. This underscores the enduring allure of custom and handcrafted pieces. The craftsman embarks on a personal journey with their creation – one that invites the consumer into a deeper and more personal realm, fostering an emotional tether.

As clothing often carries our emotional narratives, does the aphorism “wearing your heart on your sleeve” hold relevance in today’s culture, where social media often dictates fashion trends?

The cardinal principle remains authenticity to your essence and its expression. Amidst an inundation of advertising exploiting sentimental themes for audience engagement, sincerity stands out – it can be recognized and felt deeply.

When we have the courage to flaunt our frailties, even fashionably, we establish a deeper rapport with our audience, contributing meaningful and uplifting resonance within society.

In your formative collections, there was a distinct emphasis on emotionally laden historical incidents, like the 1937 Nanjing conflict. Do you envision revisiting these motifs in your upcoming works?

Historical narratives and contentious themes, like those centered on the Nanjing Atrocity, hold a special interest for me. I am ready to embark on explorations of other significant, yet divisive historical themes, such as the movement for Transitional Justice in Taiwan. Despite the somber nature of these issues, I believe they contribute to raising consciousness about pacifism and the human condition.

I regard the craft of fashion design as a conduit for discourse, capable of prompting alternative perspectives on prevailing societal matters. My last series conveyed a message against warfare. It sought to challenge viewers to reflect on the contradictory nature of war and the imperative to empathize, show respect, and uphold peace.

My intention is to probe into ongoing societal matters—whether it be the repercussions of technology, the crisis of climate change, or the widespread angst and hypochondria in the era of rampant capitalism. The dialogue between these juxtaposing perspectives warrants further exploration.

I endeavor to infuse my creations with profound cultural introspection. The forthcoming series will underscore my unique vision as a fashion innovator and stimulate contemplation on contemporary social issues.

Kai Ting Chen’s Signature Design Philosophy

Every designer possesses a defining signature. Chen distinguishes her creative essence with an unwavering focus on the human element and emotive nuance. She emerges as a visionary apt for our era, provoking thought on the delicate fabric of humanity with each piece she crafts.

Article by Aine Lagan